At International Panel Shop, we are able to offer our panel beating and spray painting services, regardless of what make or model vehicle you have. This means we are able to repair any vehicle, be it a light passenger vehicle, or a large commercial vehicle. We have earned a reputation for being reliable, trustworthy and affordable panel beaters, because we are committed to quality service at competitive market related prices.
At International Panel Shop we offer a repair and paint service that will have your car looking great again in no time at all.
The service itself includes a great deal more than just full panels being spray-painted. We also offer express repair services for dents, scratches and chips in the paint work.
WHY BUFF YOUR CAR?
Buffing is an art in the world of auto detailing, it can do anything from removing a small scratch scuff to making the damage from a major collision look more appealing. In reality, it’s usually the most intensive repair that can be made to existing paint, but it can’t do the same job as a respray. followed by an intensive buff and polish.
Code of Conduct
Many customers will ask if the auto body repair shop will get the paint job to factory standard, the best way is to see how the factory does it and how the auto body shop does it. Here you will see how the factory does it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV6_m1weq9c and here you can see how an auto body shop does it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hCPSckqF8M. As you can see the factory uses robots with sensors on the nozzles. We also get what is called an orange peel effect (slightly mottled effect) but the lay of the paint is great but not up to a classic show room effect - but intended that way by the factory, which is not a poor job, it is just the standard. A classic effect is better done in an autobody shop. A classic/showroom effect such as on Bentley requires at least 6 coats of paint and some may put more paint in stages leaving a slippery glass like effect on the panels. Keep in mind this requires a lot of flatting (sanding with very fine sandpaper and water). There is a lot more technically going on but hopefully this gives you a bit of an idea of what goes on behind the scenes and yes, we can create the paint effects required for your vehicle.
Have you ever noticed that the color of the paint on your bumper seems to be different than the color of the paint on the rest of the vehicle? Here’s why:
First – some basic vehicle anatomy: for the vast majority of vehicles, the bumpers are made out of plastic and the rest of the vehicle is made out of metal.
When you lay the same paint on plastic vs metal, you get different results. There’s a couple different reasons why that is.
The first reason is because the heat dissipation on plastic is slower than it is on metal, which means that it’s going to take longer to dry. This gives the metal flakes (Vermiculite) in the paint more time to rearrange differently. Also, plastic holds more static electricity than metal panels do, which – again – allows for the metal particles to rearrange. Another consideration is the contour of the plastic panels. Bumpers typically have many more contour points than the more flat metal panels, and this can give the illusion that it’s a different shade or color depending on lighting.
The manufacturer attaches what’s called a paint code to each VIN so the exact same paint can be used each time. When you get your vehicle repaired, the body shop will use this paint code to mix paint to match the rest of the paint on your vehicle.
This color variation on bumpers isn’t just seen on vehicles that are repaired or repainted. Go to any new car dealership and you’ll see it there, too. It’s more obvious with some colors, especially metallic colors, and especially “pearl white” paint.
Let us first see what rust is:
Rust is the common name for what is scientifically known as iron oxide, a form of corrosion that occurs when iron (or one of its alloys, such as steel) reacts with oxygen and there is water (or heavy air moisture) present.
What is car paint:
Modern car paints are nearly always an acrylic polyurethane "enamel" with a pigmented basecoat and a clear topcoat. It may be described as "acrylic", "acrylic enamel", "urethane", etc. and the clearcoat in particular may be described as a lacquer.
The scientific approach to this is that in the heat your paint expands. The pours absorb oxygen/moisture in small amounts. As it cools through the day, the moisture is locked in thus starting the rusting process, which is more common in places closer to the sea; or more prominent at least, where in dryer landlocked areas, this is not that common.
When an area has already rusted, even after rust treatment, is very likely to rust again. The better way is essentially to cut out the rusted area and can be decided based on how bad the rusted area is. Cutting out bad rust is always the better solution moving forward, but at the end of the day it is up to the client based on what they can afford realistically.
Waxing your vehicle regularly can also be helpful with a good quality wax such as Maguires or Mirror plate.